Autumn adjustments

It’s all looking a bit grim again isn’t it? Rising cases and more restrictions (official and self-imposed), and the weather has turned grim again too. It is definitely time to turn to comfort foods. Fortunately, it’s a good time for fruit and veg: the last of the tomatoes and aubergines are currently over lapping with the early winter squashes, and strawberries (down here in Kent at least) with plums, blackberries and early apples.

Last week we went for a foraging walk, and now have blackberry gin, rosehip vodka and hawthorn gin infusing away in the cupboard, which should at least cheer up a probably confined Christmas – I am coming to terms with the fact that this is going to be an unrecognisable Christmas, not just a different one.

But, onto the food: the first of a trio of very autumnal feeling things was another on from the Ottolenghi Flavour book: Stuffed aubergine with coconut dahl. I always find dahl very comforting, and this was no exception. Being an Ottolenghi recipe, it is not quick, but none of it is complicated. It’s a good Sunday evening recipe, where you can take your time and enjoy the process – and I even managed to take some process shots for this one!

First, slice the aubergines, toss with a little oil, then bake for 25 minutes. The slices need to be about half a cm thick, as you have to roll them around the stuffing later. To thick and they won’t roll, too thin and they will burn and break when you try to roll them (this happened with one of mine, although there was still enough).

Roasted aubergine - note unsuccessful burnt one

Next, the lentils. Fry some shallots until golden, then add ginger, chilli and curry leaves (although you can miss these out if you don’t have them), followed by spices (cumin, coriander, turmeric, black mustard seeds and curry powder), tomato puree and red lentils. Stir briefly, and then add coconut milk and some water, then leave to cook for 20 minutes.

Lentils just before adding the coconut milk 

While this is happening, stuff your aubergine: mix grated paneer with mango chutney and lime juice, then place a teaspoon of this onto each aubergine slice (you are supposed to add a large spinach leaf, but I didn’t have any), and roll them up.

Ready for the oven...

When the lentils are cooked, pour the dahl into a baking tray, then add the aubergine rolls, seam side down. Bake for 15-20 minutes, then enjoy.

...and just out of the oven.

Lentils have been a bit of a theme, as I also made squash and lentil pie. The recipe – from Gill Meller’s Root Stem Leaf Flower, includes instructions to make your own pastry, but I cheated and used a ready made roll of shortcrust which has been lurking in the freezer for a while. In a saucepan, fry onions, garlic, crushed coriander seeds and paprika until the onion is soft, then add diced squash, chopped tomatoes (fresh or tinned, I used the latter), lentils and chopped rosemary. Stir well, then add stock, and simmer until the lentils are soft.

Put the pastry sheet into a pie dish, leaving an overhang. Add the filling, scattering some goats cheese on top, then fold the overhang over to partly encase the filling.  I had a little bit of pastry left over, so I also made a very rough lattice, because, well, I like pastry, so more is generally good. Bake for forty minutes. I have discovered that this is a squash recipe that my husband whole-heartedly loves, which is useful, as I love them and he is inclined to turn his nose up at them. Next time, I might even make my own pastry.

Pie! (not elegant, but tasty)

And, last but not least: cake. Because cake is the ultimate comfort food, yes? This one was also from Gill: plum, blackberry and rosemary olive oil cake. It’s made with rye flour, and no butter, but lots of olive oil. You soak the fruit (after de-stoning the plums, which is fiddly) in sugar and lemon juice, while you make the cake batter. Then pour the batter into a tin, and sprinkle the fruit on top – it will sink to the bottom as the cake cooks, but this is fine, even according to the recipe. This cake is a lovely celebration of all autumn produce - there doesn’t seem to be much else to celebrate right now, so let’s celebrate cake (and wine).

Cake, fresh from the oven...

And on the plate - note wine glass in the background